The orphanage had until a few days previously been a luxury hotel to which Rwanda's Hutu elite had come to enjoy the panoramic views and clear air of the mountains outside Byumba. The building had been left intact, but the hotel owners had taken everything they could carry when they fled south.
The new 'manager' of the hotel was a beautiful young woman named Rose Kayitesi. She welcomed Frank like a long-lost friend. Later he told us that she had been in the mountains with his unit in the early days of the guerrilla war. 'She was a good fighter against the government troops,' he said. But now, with thousands of orphaned children flooding into rebel territory, Rose had abandoned her military fatigues and set up a reception centre for the young refugees.